9 Darkroom Procedures

Darkroom Basics I- Developing Negatives

*** Film must be handled in total darkness before it is processed and high speed film is especially susceptible to fogging by stray light in the lab. No safelights can be used for film handling until after the fixing stage, by which time the film can be handled under normal room light. Any mechanical damage to the film will show up in the final prints, so be very careful not to scratch it, especially when it is wet. 

Fig. 1 Paterson Developing Tank

Cross Section

 

Before you take the plunge into the dark-dark room, make sure you have all of the necessary equipment: Developing Tank, Reel(s), Post, Funnel, and Lid (fig.1). Also check to see if the bottle opener and scissors are in the room before you begin, or pull your film tab out from the canister before you go into the darkroom. I always set up my developing equipment before I black out the room in order of use so it will be easier to find in the dark. It is always good to practice before you try this with a practice roll (please ask for one). In complete darkness you are to open the film canister with a bottle opener, wind the film onto the reel (make sure you don’t force or jam your film onto the reel), insert the reel into the tank and close the tank so that it is light tight. ***If you have difficulty, place your film in the tank and ask for help.***

Once the film is safely in the tank, you are ready to develop your film. You will need 250 ml. of diluted developer per roll of 35mm film. The temperature for each step should be 20^o C. The processing procedure for film is:

1. Develop in TMax (1+4 H2O) agitate every minute	7.5 min. (approx)
2. Stop acidic acid (1+32)	½ min.
3. Fix in Universal fixer (1+4)	5+ min.
4. Hypo Eliminator for faster washing (1+32)	1 min.
5. Wash in running water	15 min.
6. Photo Flo slosh it about-froth it up (1+32)	1min.
7. Dry by hanging up	30min

Steps 1 through 3 must be done in the light-tight developing tank while steps 4 through 7 can be done in room light.
This assumes that you have made normal exposures and are using the standard processing temperature of 20^o Celsius (or 68^o F.). You may find that you want to increase the developing time somewhat depending on the lighting that you're using (high contrast sunlight versus soft, overcast daylight for example) and the exact nature of your light meter and camera combination. Some cameras tend to consistently underexpose or overexpose and this can be compensated for by altering the ISO setting on the camera meter and the development time. Some people deliberately vary their processing, using the zone system, made famous by Ansel Adams, of altered exposure and development to control the final look of their prints.