Darkroom Basics I- Developing
Negatives
*** Film must be handled in total
darkness before it is processed and high speed film is especially susceptible
to fogging by stray light in the lab. No safelights can be used for
film handling until after the fixing stage, by which time the film can be
handled under normal room light. Any mechanical damage to the film will show up
in the final prints, so be very careful not to scratch it, especially when it
is wet.
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Fig. 1 Paterson Developing Tank
Cross Section |
Before you take the plunge into the
dark-dark room, make sure you have all of the necessary equipment: Developing
Tank, Reel(s), Post, Funnel, and Lid (fig.1). Also check to see if the bottle
opener and scissors are in the room before you begin, or pull your film tab out
from the canister before you go into the darkroom. I always set up my
developing equipment before I black out the room in order of use so it will be
easier to find in the dark. It is always good to practice before you try this
with a practice roll (please ask for one). In complete darkness you are to open
the film canister with a bottle opener, wind the film onto the reel (make sure
you don’t force or jam your film onto the reel), insert the reel into the tank
and close the tank so that it is light tight. ***If you have difficulty,
place your film in the tank and ask for help.***
Once the film is safely in the tank, you
are ready to develop your film. You will need 250 ml. of diluted developer per
roll of 35mm film. The temperature for each step should be 20o C.
The processing procedure for film is:
1. Develop
in TMax (1+4 H2O) agitate every minute
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7.5 min. (approx)
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2. Stop
acidic acid (1+32)
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½ min.
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3. Fix
in Universal fixer (1+4)
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5+ min.
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4. Hypo
Eliminator for faster washing (1+32)
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1 min.
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5. Wash
in running water
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15 min.
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6. Photo
Flo slosh it about-froth it up (1+32)
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1min.
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7. Dry
by hanging up
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30min
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Steps 1
through 3 must be done in the light-tight developing tank while steps 4
through 7 can be done in room light.
This
assumes that you have made normal exposures and are using the standard
processing temperature of 20o Celsius (or 68o F.). You may
find that you want to increase the developing time somewhat depending on the
lighting that you're using (high contrast sunlight versus soft, overcast
daylight for example) and the exact nature of your light meter and camera
combination. Some cameras tend to consistently underexpose or overexpose and
this can be compensated for by altering the ISO setting on the camera meter and
the development time. Some people deliberately vary their processing, using the
zone system, made famous by Ansel Adams, of altered exposure and
development to control the final look of their prints.