Arts Matter: Ashli Akins Reflections

Create a new post on your blog titled "Ashli Akins" and respond to the following questions:

Ashli Akins
1. Who is Ashli, what has she done/accomplished?
2. What part of Ashli's story has resonated with you?
3. Find an image of Ashli's on her website www.mosqoy.org or "Google" that helps tell Ashli's story and post it with your responses.

Making a Contact Sheet with Adobe Bridge

We are going to learn how to use Adobe Bridge to select, rename and organize your photos into a contact sheet. Bridge has many functions such as batch rename and other utilities to help with organization, and supports editing of digital images in Camera Raw format. Organizational features include assigning colored labels or star ratings to images. And can recognize a variety of file types. Here is a tutorial to clarify: http://youtu.be/6m9nBwiskAQ you only need to watch the first 2:20 mins. Don't change the spacing and keep "file name" turned on.

1. Open Adobe Bridge
2. Open the file that holds your photos.
3. Right click RENAME the photos by the technique you used.
4. Select the images you want to add to your contact sheet SHIFT click or CTRL click on the photos.
5. Select "OUTPUT" under the top tool bar.



6. Go to the Output window on the right of your screen (sometimes it will take a minute to appear).
7. Select PDF instead of WEB GALLERY.
8. Under the TEMPLATE option, select CONTACT SHEET (4*5=20 photos or 5*7=35 photos)
9. Scroll to the very bottom of the Output window to where it says SAVE.
10. Before you press save, check the "VIEW PDF AFTER SAVE"
11. Once the PDF opens, FILE>SAVE AS>
12. Type the assignment name i.e "My Line Contact Sheet" or "Element of Design Contact".

 If you want to upload your contact sheet to your blog-

1. Open the PDF, 
2. FILE>"SAVE AS"
3. SAVE AS "TYPE": Select "JPG"
4. Make sure you select where you are going to save it to (your personal saving space your student #).
5. Then press SAVE.
6. Post to your blog as you would post an image.

My Favourite Photo

Mitanya Primary School in Nanyuki Kenya

This is my other favourite photo because...

Photo910.1 Password Change

it is now:
lfas2015

Darkroom Prodedures Deveopling Negatives Questions

Darkroom Basics I Developing Negatives

1. Label the parts of the Developing Equipment (fig.1). (1/2 each)                                                                                   /2 

1.

2.

3.

4.

                                             

Identify the correct times to develop negatives. ½ mark each

5.       Develop in TMax (1+4 H2O)	______ min.
6.        What do you do during this stage to ensure even development?	____________
7.       Stop acidic acid (1+32)	______ min.
8.       Fix in Universal fixer (1+4)	______ min.
9.       Hypo Eliminator for faster washing (1+32)	______ min.
10.       Wash in running water	______ min.
11.       Photo Flo slosh it about-froth it up (1+32)	______ min.
12.       Dry by hanging up	______ min.

/4

13.       Which is the most important chemical stage of developing negatives? Explain why.

14.       During which stage is it okay for the film to be viewed in room light? 

15.     If your film is cloudy and purple, what went wrong and can you correct it?

15.       When the film is ready to hang dry why should you be very careful? 

                                                                                         /10

9 Darkroom Procedures

Darkroom Basics I- Developing Negatives

*** Film must be handled in total darkness before it is processed and high speed film is especially susceptible to fogging by stray light in the lab. No safelights can be used for film handling until after the fixing stage, by which time the film can be handled under normal room light. Any mechanical damage to the film will show up in the final prints, so be very careful not to scratch it, especially when it is wet. 

Fig. 1 Paterson Developing Tank

Cross Section

 

Before you take the plunge into the dark-dark room, make sure you have all of the necessary equipment: Developing Tank, Reel(s), Post, Funnel, and Lid (fig.1). Also check to see if the bottle opener and scissors are in the room before you begin, or pull your film tab out from the canister before you go into the darkroom. I always set up my developing equipment before I black out the room in order of use so it will be easier to find in the dark. It is always good to practice before you try this with a practice roll (please ask for one). In complete darkness you are to open the film canister with a bottle opener, wind the film onto the reel (make sure you don’t force or jam your film onto the reel), insert the reel into the tank and close the tank so that it is light tight. ***If you have difficulty, place your film in the tank and ask for help.***

Once the film is safely in the tank, you are ready to develop your film. You will need 250 ml. of diluted developer per roll of 35mm film. The temperature for each step should be 20^o C. The processing procedure for film is:

1. Develop in TMax (1+4 H2O) agitate every minute	7.5 min. (approx)
2. Stop acidic acid (1+32)	½ min.
3. Fix in Universal fixer (1+4)	5+ min.
4. Hypo Eliminator for faster washing (1+32)	1 min.
5. Wash in running water	15 min.
6. Photo Flo slosh it about-froth it up (1+32)	1min.
7. Dry by hanging up	30min

Steps 1 through 3 must be done in the light-tight developing tank while steps 4 through 7 can be done in room light.
This assumes that you have made normal exposures and are using the standard processing temperature of 20^o Celsius (or 68^o F.). You may find that you want to increase the developing time somewhat depending on the lighting that you're using (high contrast sunlight versus soft, overcast daylight for example) and the exact nature of your light meter and camera combination. Some cameras tend to consistently underexpose or overexpose and this can be compensated for by altering the ISO setting on the camera meter and the development time. Some people deliberately vary their processing, using the zone system, made famous by Ansel Adams, of altered exposure and development to control the final look of their prints.

The Photoshop Portrait Assignment

Continue to work on your Portrait. Each time you try one of the following experiments, save the image "SAVE AS" so that you preserve the previous version. Gather them in one file, then paste the file in the Photo 9/10 Share folder, paste/post best your top 4 into your journal.

1. Touch-up the Photo- Correct the contrast and exposure: Image>Adjustments>Levels (or Exposure). Try the spot healing brush, clone stamp, (you need to alt copy the area you want to take the tone from) or copy color and air brush with low opacity.
2. Double Exposure- try selecting an area with the "Lasso" or the "Square Marquee" from the same or another image and Copy>Paste. You can use the Eraser to touch up. OR Try the Rubber Stamp Tool, but consider copying it onto a different layer.
3. Dodge and Burn- either use the Burn Tool to darken a light area, or use the Dodge Tool to lighten a dark area. Or try a vignette where you use the Elliptical Marquee tool to select the area to select the area around the image Select>Inverse (To Feather the edge type a # in the option bar at the top), then try burning the edges with a Burn Tool or Image>Adjust>Levels.
4. Contact Negative- Image>Adjustments>Invert. Try Levels to enhance.
5. Solarize- Filter> Render>Solarize. Again you could adjust the darkness and contrast with Levels.
6. An Experiment- ...? Your choice, play around!
7. Selective Colour- Using Adjustment layers and masking techniques, or Image>Adjustment> Variations. 
8. Add a Texture Layer- Open a file with a similar file size as the one that you are working on. Then >SELECT>ALL> COPY and the >PASTE into your portrait, use the layer mode to select and overlay mode to combine the texture with your portriat.
9. Try 3 Combinations use layers, opacity, Filters and Image Adjustments.